An important emerging sector of Indian economy, gem and jewelry is a leading foreign exchange earner for the country. The country consumes around 800 tonnes of gold that account for 20 % of global gold consumption and nearly 600 tonnes of this goes into jewelry making. The Indian jewellery market, which is estimated to be US$ 13.5 billion in fiscal 2006-07, accounts for 8.3 % of the global jewellery sales, according to a study by KPMG.
The increase in purchasing parity of the middle class and surgingincome levels have resulted in consumption growth of gems and jewellery by about 11 % in the 5 year period preceding 2006-07. It also contributes over 15 % of the total exports of country and provides employment to 1.3 million people directly and indirectly. The two major segments of the gem and jewelry industry in India are gold jewellery and diamonds. The contribution of gold jewelry is about 80 % of the total jewelry market, with the balance comprising fabricated studded jewelry, which includes diamonds as well as gemstone studded jewellery.
Today, jewellery designing as a career is steadily grabbing international attention. India has produced award-winning jewellery and accessory designers. Industry Experts believe that It’s a good time guys to think of jewellery designing as a career option. Till barely 10-15 years back, jewellery designing was confined to a few goldsmiths. “But nowadays things have changed”. Jewellery designing has come out of the closet: It is no longer a cloistered trade carried out by semi-literate goldsmiths in family vaults, passed down like a well-kept secret from generation to generation. Instead, thanks to the advances in technology, it has landed on the drawing board with some firms even using computer-aided designs to create exquisite pieces in virtual reality.
With the entry of big players like Tanishq, Swarovski, DeBeers, D’- damas, the shifting thrust on gems and stones rather than pure gold is giving a big push to the organised gems and jewellery industry. On the back of a sizzling growth of the organised jewellery industry, striking job openings and exciting entry-level salaries, it’s a fine era to consider jewellery designing as a career preference.
Most jewellery designing courses are of six month to two-year duration. The following are the reputed institutes and courses –
College Britanica, Britanica House-38, Sectoir-32, Institutional Area, Sector 15 Crossing, Nh-8, Gurgaon (Haryana) offers degrees & diplomas in jewellery design. Delhi Institute Of Fashion & Technology, 9,Community Centre, East of Kailash, New Delhi offers 1-year Diploma & 6-month Professional Certificate in Jewellery Designing. Gemmological Institute Of India, 29,Gurukul Chambers, 187-189, Mumbadevi Road, Mumbai 400002 offers Diploma courses in Gemmology, JD, Diamond grading & correspondence course in Gemmology. Gemstone Artisans Training School, Jhalana Mahal, Jaipur 302017 offers Courses in Cutting & Polishing of Diamonds & Coloured stones. The Gemmological Institute of India, 29 Gurukul Chambers, 187-189 Maumbadevi Road, Mumbai-2 offers programmes in Gemmology; Diamond Grading and Assorting, Pearls Wigan and Leigh College (India), Nehru Place, New Delhi National Institute of Fashion Designing-NIFT -The Karnataka State Cooperative Marketing federation Building, No.8, Cunningham road, Bangalore-560 052, Sector III, Salt Lake City, Kolkata (West Bengal), NIFT Campus, near Gulmohar Park, NIFT Campus,Hauz Khas, New Delhi. Aalisha Polytechnic, L-2/47,New Mahavir Nagar, Outer Ring Road, Vikas Puri, New Delhi 110062. Indian Diamond Institute-Stardar Vallabhbhai Patel Centre Of Jewellery Design & Manufacture, Katargam, GIDC, sumul Dairy Road, Katargam Post Box 508, Surat 395008 offers various diploma and degree courses. Pearl Academy of Fashion, Delhi Campus – A – 21/13, Naraina Industrial Area – Phase II, New Delhi – 110028., Chennai Campus – 82, Sterling Road, Nungambakkam, Chennai – 600034, Tamil Nadu. Ludhiana Campus- 178, Col. Gurdial Singh Road, Civil Lines, Ludhiana – 141001., Bangladesh Campus- H.N.#11 , Road #6, Baridhara, Dhaka., UAE Campus -P.O.Box: 31918, Sharjah, United Arab Emirates.Ph.: 971 06/5540661, 06/5540663
Resident and Distance Education programmes are offered by
Indian Diamond Institute, Katargam, GIDC, Sumul Dairy Road, Surat-395008 Indian Gemmological Institute, Barakhamba Road, New Delhi-110001 Department of Geology, St. Xavier’s College, Mumbai-400001 teaches Jewellery Design; Gemmology; Diamond AssortmentGemstones Artisans Training School (sponsored by GOI), Jaipur-302017 trains for diamond/ coloured gemstones cutting and polishing S.G. Jhaveri Centre for Diamond Technology, Shri Bhagubhai Mafatlal Polytechnic,Vile Parle Mumbai-400056 (Diamond Technology) Jewellery Product Development Centre, Commerce Centre, Tardeo, Mumbai-400034
Gem & Jewellery Export Promotion Council, Jaipur-302003 National Institute of Fashion Technology’s (NIFT’s) Accessory Design course could also lead up this profession. Jewellery Design & Training Institute (JDTI), NOIDA offering a whole range of courses dealing with all aspects of the Gem and Jewellery Industry including :
Jewellery Design; Jewellery Design & Technology; Gemmology; Finishing, Polishing, Repairing Mould-making; Market Research & Presentation, etc. Small Industries Services Institute, Guindy, Chennai-600032 trains for Gem Cutting & Polishing
The facilities provided at the institutes are state-of-the-art and fully equipped with the latest reference material and machinery. The workstations are especially designed for fatigue-free long hours. The classrooms are specially constructed to provide relief from boredom. Those who have cleared their plus two are eligible to apply for jewellery designing courses. Admissions are on the basis of an interview.
Here are the few options of magnificent Career in field of Jewellery-
Fashion Jeweller/ Artist Jeweller/Jewellery designer / Designer/Freelance designer : Someone who designs jewellery through renderings and drawings, models or even wax originals may be employed by a company or self employed. It is not necessary to know how to make the jewellery, just how it is made. Jewellery is no longer purchased with only the intrinsic value of gold in mind. The working woman wants trendy and functional trinkets, which can be worn at office, at home and on outings. , a working woman wants to make a fashion statement and, on the other hand, she wants trinkets for regular wear. That in turn has spawned a lifestyle industry and demand for jewellery designers.
Goldsmith/ Manufacturer: anything from small production runs to mass production, from service work for others to marketing one’s own line. The art of making jewellery has been the monopoly of traditional ‘kaarigars’ or goldsmiths who have inherited the expertise from their ancestors and have played the dual role of designer and manufacturer. During those days, jewellery designing as a career had been limited to the kaarigars and one could learn this profession only by becoming an apprentice to an experienced jeweller. But today with the explosion in the fashion and accessories arena, the field is becoming a lucrative career which offers a sparkling future for those who are fascinated by gems and jewellery. A new breed of jewellery designers and professionals like gem appraisers are in great demand with the growing market for branded ornaments.
Production Bench Worker: a goldsmith who specializes in production work, anything from running a punch press, a computer milling station (coming soon) to repetitive hand work. Not usually high status work.
Repair person: specializes in repairs. Often the best way of starting and learning jewellery skills and the basis of many a successful jewellery business. May be employed by a store or have ones own service business or retail outlet.
Stonesetter: a secure employed position or a service company for jewellery stores and goldsmiths; a good setter earns very well and is well respected.
Caster: possibilities include employment or a service company. Good prospects for an aggressive small company.
Gemologist/Appraiser: usually an employed position, some options for independent service work. Training and equipment costs can be high. Diamonds are a specialized sub-section of gemology
Jewellers/Exporters – Exports from the industry yield US$ 17.1 billion in 2006-07 against US$ 16.64 billion in 2005-06, reflecting a growth of 26 %. While the diamonds accounted for 64 % of the total exports, gold jewellery accounted for 30.47 %, colored gem stones and others accounted for 1.44 % and 1.04 % respectively last year. The export of cut and polished diamond segment US$ 10.90 billion, while the export of gold jewellery yielded US$ 5.21 billion last year. Colored gemstone exports fetched US$ 246.48 million last fiscal, against US$ 232.35 million in the previous year.
Future growth in the gem and jewellery business is likely to be driven by increased exports to the US and other markets, apart from a surge in domestic consumption.
Model maker: a goldsmith specializing in making original metal models. Often an employed position it is the highest level of goldsmithing in many ways. Generally linked with larger operations though often goldsmiths are called on to make models in smaller companies. As an independent service career it is difficult to compete with wax models
Plater: Fairly short training, an employed position. some opportunity for independent service work. Requires good marketing skills to find customers but demand is always steady. Few companies outside large cities would have enough work to employ a plater full time.
Polisher: an employed position, some find it monotonous, others find the concentration pleasant. Some room for independent service work in larger cities.
Production manager: well paid, requires long experience in the trade and jobs are easier to come by.
Rubber Mold Maker: usually an employed position in a factory, plenty of room for independent service work in small to large cities; requires marketing skills. Some option for mailed service work.
Teacher/Faculty : the route would be through art schools and industry experience, long training with some room for employed and independent service work
Watchmaker: a specialized field. Most watches are now quartz and require only minimal skills to change batteries or movements. True watch making is dying out and this means that for a highly motivated skilled watchmaker/goldsmith there are very well paying opportunities
Computer Aided designer : coming soon and already here in some places are computer driven machines which carve wax, build up plastic models, harden plastic models from liquids, mill steel molds for wax or plastics injection. All of these are intended for casting. There will be an increasing place in the field of goldsmithing and jewellery production for people who understand goldsmithing and computers
Allied services sales agent: giftware, packaging, display, security, insurance, bookkeeping etc: self explanatory, selling to jewellery stores, subject to the vagaries of the economy.
Sales Staff: employed by jewellery stores, pay is low to good depending upon the store and skills. A very high end store will have the best pay opportunities. It is a good way to learn something of the business of running a jewellery store, particularly in a smaller business where many jobs are expected of one
Store Owner/Manager/ Shop manager: well paid, usually worked up through the ranks from sales staff.
Stone Dealer: can be employed and represent a company, often a place for independents. You have to like travel and have good skills. Income can be very rewarding
Also, the Branded Jewellery has become a passion. People yearn for the contemporary designs at great prices. The concept of branded jewellery has therefore taken a swing in India. De beers were the initiator of this notion and a trail followed it and will be continuing further. Time and again we see new entrants in this segment of branded jewellery introducing innovative designs on after the other. This motion keeps the competition on, flooding the marketplace with fine and fresh designs.
So all those who have an intrinsic talent and inclination towards this off- beat career option, get set for a glittering career…