Even being one of the most ignorant topics, there is an importance of knowing the vital points of formation of a right trouser. The knowledge of critical areas in a trouser is as important because the entire fit of trouser depends on the making of the pattern and the garment correct keeping in mind the critical points of trouser. A P Khan, Associate Professor at Pearl Academy of Fashion (email@example.com), who has more than twenty years of experience in industry and academics, shares his thoughts on the issue.
The basic trouser blocks are drafted to the average stock size measurements, and the resulting patterns fit the majority of people with such measurements. Due to differences of body structure, variations in fit may occur and therefore the defects need to be altered. Serious considerations if not taken can lead to various defects.
Some commonly identified defects are ‘Centre back opens while sitting’ and ‘Pleat in Centre Back’:
Centre back Opens while Sitting Pleat in Centre Back
What is a dart? A dart helps the fabric fit to the curves, so that the fabric does not look wrinkled or baggy “Or” The dart is usually curved, in order to shape the garment properly.
What is crotch area in trouser? The area on a pair of pants, where the two leg panels are sewn together.
How to measure crotch length? Hold the tape at your centre back of your waist. Run the tape between your legs, pulling comfortably crotch, up to your natural waist at front. The total measurement is your rise or crotch length.
DEFECTS IN TROUSER:
Back rise is short
Back rise should grip the break point. Now when it is Short, it will not grip the break point/curve the body
Solution: Back rise should be increased.
Reason: Pattern Defect – Waist area is slant .Dart tuning is not done
What is Dart tuning? Dart tuning means triangular shape or an addition in the pattern so that the required ease is imparted. The Reason for this defect is the way dart is formed. The shape of the dart is not correct.
While making the pattern if a pattern maker does not add any dart tuning, i.e. if he makes a dart and cut it straight; then while stitching this dart; the fabric will be shorter than the required length. Further when it is attached to the waist band it will result in pleat formation.
Defect after stitching
Effect after Dart Stitch
So, to overcome this problem the dart formation should be changed. An extra ease or length is given to the dart. The edge should be made in triangular shape (Tuning) rather than straight. By changing the shape of the dart the main pattern remains unchanged; as the extra fabric is cut and then attached to the waistband. This will reduce the possibilities of pleats formation.